"Hollow to hem" is a term frequently used in the fashion and sewing industries, particularly when discussing the measurement and construction of garments, especially dresses and skirts. Understanding this term is crucial for both designers and those who sew or alter clothing. In essence, hollow to hem refers to the measurement taken from the hollow of the back (the deepest point of the curve of the back waist) to the hemline of a garment. This measurement is vital for determining the overall length of a garment, ensuring a proper fit, and achieving the desired silhouette.
Why is Hollow to Hem Important?
The hollow to hem measurement is crucial for several reasons:
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Accurate Length: Unlike simply measuring from the waistline, hollow to hem accounts for the natural curve of the back. This ensures the garment hangs correctly and avoids unwanted bunching or pulling at the waist. Using the waistline alone can lead to significant inaccuracies, particularly in fitted styles.
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Consistent Fit: This measurement is particularly important for creating patterns and adjusting existing garments. Consistency in this measurement ensures that the final product fits as intended, avoiding alterations later on.
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Design Considerations: Designers use hollow to hem measurements to create different styles and silhouettes. A longer hollow to hem measurement will result in a longer garment, while a shorter measurement will create a shorter one.
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Body Shape Accommodation: The hollow of the back is a natural body landmark that varies from person to person. Using hollow to hem instead of a generalized waist measurement allows for better adjustment to accommodate different body types and create a more flattering fit.
How is Hollow to Hem Measured?
Measuring hollow to hem requires accuracy and attention to detail. Here's how to do it:
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Locate the Hollow: Find the deepest point of the curve in the back waist. This point usually sits just below the natural waistline.
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Measure to the Hem: Using a flexible measuring tape, measure from the hollow point straight down to where the hemline should fall. Ensure the tape is held taut but not pulled tight.
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Record the Measurement: Record the measurement in inches or centimeters, keeping in mind that this measurement will be crucial for pattern making or alterations.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the difference between waist to hem and hollow to hem?
The key difference lies in the starting point. Waist to hem measures from the natural waistline, while hollow to hem measures from the hollow of the back. The hollow is usually below the natural waistline, making hollow to hem a more accurate measurement for many garments.
How do I adjust a garment if the hollow to hem is too long or short?
If the hollow to hem is too long, the hem can be shortened by turning it up and stitching. If it's too short, a fabric strip can be added to the hem or the entire garment can be let out (depending on the fabric and construction).
Is hollow to hem only used for dresses and skirts?
While it's most commonly used for dresses and skirts, the principle can be applied to other garments such as coats or jackets to ensure a proper fit and length.
Can I use a standard hollow to hem measurement for all garments?
No, the hollow to hem measurement is specific to each individual and the desired style of the garment. This measurement should be taken for every garment to ensure a proper fit.
Understanding "hollow to hem" is fundamental to creating well-fitting garments. By accurately measuring and utilizing this measurement, you can ensure your projects are not only well-made but also beautifully fitted and flattering. Remember to be precise in your measurements and consider your body shape and the garment's style when determining the ideal hollow to hem length.
